Dynojet Kit 2193 for the Ninja 250R - F’n Awesome
I previously talked about the Dynojet 2193 Jet Kit for the Kawasaki Ninja 250R a few weeks back (Link Here) and since then I have installed one had one installed and all I can say is… Wowzers!!!
Review
So, um, why exactly does the bike not come like this stock? This upgrade is night and day compared to the stock needle settings.
The bike comes from the factory jetted to meet emissions standards. Which is why I need to say the following:
“The DynoJet Kit is for Offroad use only… yadda-yadda.. Installing it might also affect your Manufacture warranty from Kawasaki… yadda - yadda.. Install at your own risk, and remember the polar ice caps are melting before you mess with emissions equipment…”
In the stock configuration, the Ninja 250R is very anemic in the low RPM range. So much so that below 5000RPM’s in first gear the engine bogs way down.. Almost as if it’s geared too tall (which we all know is NOT the case). And over 10,000 RPM’s Power drop off is drastic — Making the usable power range in stock form really only like 6k - 10k RPM range. That makes sense, since those are the RPM’s you traditionally find yourself while your cruising.
This kit comes with all the jets needed for Stock Upgrade to Aftermarket Exhausts and Intakes. So once you buy this kit, it can grow and adapt to any aftermarket upgrades you add in the future.
After installing the DynoJet Kit — Usable RPM’s change to the 3k - 12k range. The bike just comes alive and the power band smooths out making constant gear changes to keep the bike in the 6-10k range much less frequent. First gear riding when the bike is cold becomes much less unpredictable and scary, and once the bike is warm you’ll find the rev limiter quickly because the bike keeps pulling well all the way to red line.. You no longer have the noticeable drop in power to remind you to shift.
If you have been on the fence about installing this kit. Don’t walk — Run — to the nearest dealer or Dynojets website to pick one of these up.
Some Additional Details:
Installation
I have been a shadetree mechanic on cars, ATVS, lawn mowers, etc for years now and I had every intention of doing a full walk through of how to install this jet kit. The truth is, I chickened out. I’m still waiting on my Kawasaki Service Manual to come in the mail and until then I’m not going to risk my safety by botching the install. But, for those of you that are thinking about doing this yourself, here are something things you need to know:
You must take the carbs off the bike to complete this. This is not just a needle upgrade (Which is pretty simple) There is no way that even the tiniest of newborn hands could get in there to do this without taking out the carbs. To take the carbs off you must have a good set of long screwdrivers (At least 12 inches). Many of the screws are hard to reach and made of very soft Brass, and will easily strip if you use the wrong size screw driver or come at them at an odd angle.
You must have a service manual, or take details pictures/notes of where everything is connected. There are many tubes and brackets that look very similar (or are just flat out identical) — and on newer bikes they haven’t been in their installed position long enough to have any ‘Position’ memory. So once everything is disconnected, you’ll have a mess of fuel lines and vacuum tubes — which will end badly if you mix those up — so take your time and make sure you connect everything back properly.
You must go easy on the bike for the first few miles after the install to make sure that everything was installed and working properly. Instinct will be to go out and ring the crap out of the bike — but until you know all hoses and and bodywork screws are tight — be smart — and be safe…
Issues:
The only issue I have found is that there is some after fire / backfire / exhaust pop during engine braking in 1st and 2nd gear around the 6-8k range. It seems to only happen as you roll off heavy throttle in this RPM range — This causes the bike to run rich and push the excess gas out the exhaust. It’s not bad — but I don’t like it since backfire it can reap havoc on your valve train. If you experience this just don’t slam the throttle shut in these situations.
Costs / Times:
Kit Price: ~$80
DIY Install Time: Expect 2-4 Hours depending on experience.
Professional Installation: Most will bill 2 Hours shop time. So expect $150-$200.
Smile: Priceless
Shade Of Black Said,
May 4, 2008 @ 10:35 am
One thing I can say about jet kit install, like the OP said the FSM is a must. Also might want to consider labeling all the hoses/other parts you remove or disconnect, saved me a lot of headaches.
I was on the fence about doing it myself or taking it a shop….a shop quoted me for $375 to install and jet, thus I opted for a $60 FSM and some elbow grease and decided to do it myself.
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BladeCutter Said,
May 6, 2008 @ 6:33 pm
Personally, if you have ever installed a jet kit on a motorcycle before, installation of this jet kit on the ‘08 Ninja 250 is fairly straight forward.
Now, I don’t believe you need to have the FSM, but it never hurts to have it on hand.
I’ve pulled the carbs out of enough Ninja 250’s (old and new generations alike), and for the new one, here’s what you need to remove them:
3, 4, and 5 mm allen tools. I prefer tools that attach to socket wrenches, which makes it alot easier.
Really helpful for the air box boot screws, as these are the biggest pains on the entire bike.
These are needed to remove the fairings, the seat, and the airbox mounting bolts
#2 phillips screwdriver, several lengths.
This gets the side covers under the front seat, and the carb intake boots between the engine and the carbs. Also needed to remove the carb float bowl and vacuum chamber caps screws, and not to mention the battery and battery box.
A couple various size and length flat bladed screwdrivers.
This covers the main jets, the needle jets, the mixture screws, the 3 plastic snap retainers under the fairings, and will also come in handy in removing the intake boots from the engine so that you can remove the carbs.
Finally, you need a 10 mm socket.
This gets the gas tank and mounting bracket, plus a couple fairing stay brackets out of the way where the 5mm headed fairing screws attach to the frame of the bike.
One thing I have learned is that there is no need to remove the coolant tank to remove the carbs.
Don’t bother trying, its a bigger pain than you want to deal with.
Sooner or later, there will be a full write up of the process on the Ninja 250 board, along with photos, and possibly even a video showing the process.
BC.
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First 2Fiddy.com FREE Give Away! | Kawasaki Ninja 250R Parts, Reviews, and Information Said,
May 9, 2008 @ 1:42 pm
[…] Of Black for comment Number 70 from The DynoJet Kit […]
Chris Said,
May 23, 2008 @ 8:14 am
Just finished the install on my 08 and they are right for most people unless you have a crapload of experience i would not try this one yourself. Very impressive results though after only 30 seconds with the choke on the bike idles fine and revs snappy no more hesitation and insecurities pulling out in front of cars with a cold bike. Great mod.
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Dan Reply:
August 7th, 2008 at 1:29 am
what pipe and air filter do you have and what #needle groove did you use?
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ryan Said,
August 15, 2008 @ 9:29 pm
i had my 250 jetted with the dyno jet kit and i cant say that i noticed a difference in performance. i installed a a full yosh system and it ran like crap so when i took it in for the first service, i had them jet it. picked it up 2 days later and took it out on a ride and it was worsed than before i had them jet it. so i had to take it back so they could try it again. after i got it back that time, it was smoothed out, but it still has a little hesitation at certain rpm’s and still backfires, which is very annoying and embarassing. according to the shop tech that did the work on my bike, the jets in the 250’s are adjusted according to spark plug color, and that is where they had the most trouble. im not sure if this dealer jetted my bike incorrectly, or if my expectations were a little to high. all i can say is i asked one of the shop techs about the hesitation and back firing and he said that its normal for a jetted bike to do that. doesnt sound right to me. any ideas?
[Reply]
Bryan Thornhill Reply:
August 17th, 2008 at 8:51 pm
I jetted my bike myself and here is what I found out from doing it. I have a full system form Area P and when I removed the snorkel I went a step further and dremeled out that area to make it a little bigger to allow for easier breathing. I was one of those people that did not want to completely take out the airbox and fit it with K&N’s filters as that really changed the look and design that Kawasaki put into the bike.
I used the Dyno jet kit #2193 myself where I installed the biggest 100 main jet that was included in the kit. My stock jets said 98 on them so I was a little disappointed when Dynojet sent a 94, 96, 98 and a 100 in my stage 2 kit. I understand that there are bikes that are sold all over the world that require different sized jet packages as we don’t all live at the save elevations but make different kits for different regions or something. Anyway, if I would have needed a bigger main jet then then the 100 I would of had to have purchased it separately from the already over priced kit. I used their included needles with the e-clips three spaces from the top as specified in the instructions were I turned the air screws completely in and set them both at three full turns out. With these setting my bike ran as good as to be expected where it back-fires rarely and when it does it is so small it is hardly noticed in the engine breaking. A note to try and remember when you ride your bike is where in the power curve it is performing badly. The air screws change how the bike runs at idle and down low where the needles and the e-clip position control the mid range power. The main jets are responsible for the upper end of the throttle and full power. If there is a noticeable problem in one of these areas then that specific area of the carbs needs further adjustment.
Another thing you might want to check is that there are no air leaks where the headers join the cylinder or where the canister connects to the mid pipe. Do this buy running your fingers around those areas just as soon as you start the bike as these areas will get very hot. I had to purchase new Kawasaki exhaust gaskets as I could not get the used stock gaskets to seal properly. As I think I can remember I had my YZ 250F motocross bike where I installed a new FMF full exhaust system and it leaked at one of the major joints where it backfired until I sent it back and had them re-press fit the two joint together for a better fit. The jet kit that you order also came with some trouble shooting instructions on proper tuning of the carbs and it goes into pretty good detail about getting your bike to run properly based on the three areas that I mentioned. Since you did not do it yourself you are probably not going to be able to make the changes yourself but if I where you I would ask for your money back from the people that can’t seem to get your bike tuned properly and take it to someone who can do a better job. I wish I could sync my two carbs but I don’t have that equipment and I don’t trust anyone around here to do it properly. Back when I worked and lived in Dallas, Central Yamaha where I worked had a expert mechanic named Dean Phelps and he could make any bike sing with performance. He was an actual racer so he knew his stuff and he also took great care of customers bikes.
[Reply]
Bryan Thornhill Reply:
August 17th, 2008 at 9:11 pm
I also just thought of another problem that you maybe could be having and that is an air leak at the rubber boots where the carbs join the airbox and also directly to the engine cylinder. If the clamps did not get fully tightened on anyone of these six connection points or the boots where not fully pushed on and secured properly this could be causing performance problems like you mention as well.
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ryan Said,
August 18, 2008 @ 7:03 pm
thanks for all of the information bryan. i have thought about asking for my money back on the jetting, but the parts guy(not the guy that did the jetting) has really helped me out alot. o and i forgot to mention, after i picked up my 250 the first time, the left front turn signal wasnt connected, i had two loose fairing bolts, and they had the brake light switch on the rear brake pedal way out of wack, so if i hit my rear brakes only, my brake light wouldnt light up unless i stomped on it. i thought about getting the bike race-tuned and dynoed, but for a daily rider, probably isnt worth the extremely high price or the time on the waiting list.
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bthornhill Reply:
August 19th, 2008 at 10:10 pm
Well I wished yours ran better as there is some improvement that you should be experiencing with the addition of the exhaust and jet kit. Mine runs flawlessly as I am glad that it did because I did not want to have to tear it down again to get things right a second time.
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Nino Said,
October 6, 2008 @ 11:45 am
I’m new to the 250 world…
I have the Area P short system, will this kit help my fuel consumption?
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dknollRX7 Reply:
October 13th, 2008 at 7:53 pm
It shouldn’t help your fuel consumption because these bikes run on the lean side for emmission purposes. The purpose of this kit is to make the bike run richer, so your mpg will go down some.
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stuflecknoe Said,
December 2, 2008 @ 6:19 am
My stock ‘09 Ninja 250R has been rejetted for a week with no new pipe just the same old. I didn’t want to have a race bike or anything extraordinary, just wanted it to have a bit more ooompf than it did when i got it and after reading the comments on various sites i decided a jet kit was in order.
I immediately noticed that my mechanic had lowered the idle speed but one twist and it went from dg-dg-dg-dg to wrowrrr! Its a much more exciting engine to control now and it has power all the way up the rev range. I don’t feel the need to judge my revs and gear selection so carefully before or during cornering as there is no soft spot in the low end. I’m not afraid to drag race for my spot on the roundabout because the power is there to do it with and i know that im going to get up to speed every time.
The bike now has the power it should have - its the way you would want your bike to be. I highly recommend this mod even to beginners, even if buying your bike brand new.
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